ASK JONSEY : The Capacitor Ambassador

[jonesy]

After Christmas I am defiantly ordering a set of Spragues from you Jonesy and putting them Studio into a 50's style wiring!

For sure, just let me know when you are ready I would be glad to hook you up bro

[banditguitarist1]

Awesome man, I have a gibson studio tht im putting the caps in is there a specific value that would be best?

[jonesy]

Awesome man, I have a gibson studio tht im putting the caps in is there a specific value that would be best?

Greetings Bandit, depending on your pickups and playing style you could use anything from .015-.047 Gibson has used .022 for 50 years so that is the norm. I would go with some type of good quality PIO Paper in Oil Tone caps. Sprague HYREL .022 PIO, or the Vitamin Q's, I have had excellent results with the Russian PIO K40's & K42's, they are warm and crisp. Orange drops are better than the stock caps that Gibson puts in(223 ceramic) but they are polypropylene not PIO. Volume bleed kits can be helpful if you like to roll off the dial when playing, keeps Tone crisp at any volume level. Keep in mind that a .047 is a lot darker than a .022, and a .015 is not as dark as a .022 when your Tone is rolled off. Some guys don't use their Tone controls much,but with a good set of PIO caps you may find them a little more user friendly. Upgrading to 500K CTS Audio Pots will make controls smoother and better curve on roll-off. Peace, jonesy

[banditguitarist1]

thanks Jonesy I'm using 490R and 498T Alnico 2 pups my playing is alot of blues but also into heavier rhythms, I was thinking the .022 would be good as I like how the tone controls sound on my JPP. I'm sure PIO caps are better as that seems to be the preference amongst tone addicts, Bumblebee's seem to be really popular also so I might get a set of those, is there a difference from regular caps and bumblebee?

[jonesy]

The Bumble Bees are Paper In Oil as well, that is why they are sought after for their TONE. I have the same set of pickups in my 99' Gibson LP Special. Tried out lot's of PIO caps in it and currently have a pair of the Russian green cased K-42 PIO in .022, they actually read closer to .018 so they have a nice mid curve on the roll off. They are crisp and warm and sound great with amp set clean or overdriven.

[banditguitarist1]

that sounds awesome could you PM me a price and I'll see if I can order a set of those K-42's if you got them if now I think I'll go with Bumblebees .022 thanks Jonesy!

Also to instal its simply a matter of unsolder the old ones and resoldering the new ones in there place right? Also does anyone have a guide to how to do the 50's wiring I would love to install the new caps with a 50's wiring.

[jonesy]

[jonesy]

Sent you a PM, here are a couple of diagrams for 50's wiring

[jonesy]

I like to tinker and there is not much to do here in Indiana when it is only 10 degrees outside, so after dinner tonight I tore into my 99' LP Special and did the Peter Green Mod to the neck pickup. See pics...




















I tried to get these pics in order and had no one to take them for me while I was working so I did the best I could to show you what I did.

1. You may want to remove pickup from guitar completely but that is a bit more work. You also should probably get a soft rag and protect the surface of your guitar while working on it, this is my beater LP and I was careful. Had to take pics with one hand to show what I did so these will give you a general idea of what you need to do.

2. You have to work slowly and carefully as not to damage any of the windings or you could ruin the pickup. The solder welds have to be broken open after heating them up, but don't melt the bobbins.

3. Carefully pry off the cover if you need to, but be careful not to break a wire.

4. You need to loosen the screws to get the magnet to slide out, but do not take them all the way out or things will start falling apart.

5. On my pickup I had to completely unscrew the pole pieces as they were screwed through the bobbin and into the base. Bobbin would not lift up unless they were almost all the way out.

6. Once you can push the bobbins up you will be able to get magnet to slide out. I used a scalpel style exacto knife between the end of the magnet and the base to pop it loose. Then I used a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pull it out. I marked top and end. Then removed it and rotated the magnet end for end 180 degrees but did not flip it over. This is the magnetic equivalent of reversing the polarity.

7. After magnet is slid back in, push down bobbins and tighten screws up in back of plate. Screw back in all the adjustable pole pieces throught the bobbin and into the base plate.

8. Put cover back on, don't pinch any wires. Resolder the welds on back that hold on cover.

9. I also rotated the entire pickup around when I mounted it back into the guitar. That is how Greenie did it and hey, maybe it will give it a little more Mojo.

10. I put a fresh set of ernie ball regular slinkys 10-46 back on and tried the top wrap this time. Not sure if I like the way the strings take a sharp bend as they come out of the hole and back over the stop tail piece?

Well I must have done the Peter Green Mod correctly because it sounds awesome out of phase when the switch is in the middle and both pickups are on. I have been working on the PG phrasing, now I have his Tone nailed even better. Gonna try it out at band practice tomorrow afternoon. I have been wanting to learn a little more about pickups and this was a really fun mod for me. Easy enough to change back if I wanted to. There are pics of this in my profile albums. Thanks for reading. Peace, jonesy

[Last LP]

Just ordered a set of the Sprague PIO .022 HYRELin Relic'd brown paper with wax potted ends for my R9.

Many thanks Jonesy for the suggestions. I'm wondering which wiring you'd recommend for these?

I'm assuming a '50's wiring?

Also can I do this fairly easily with the current POTS that I've got in the R9 now (which are factory CTS).

Thanks again!

You're the man with the plan!

[jonesy]

Here are your two main types of LP wiring, the main difference is the way caps are connected to the volume pot lugs. The 50's wiring is a little brighter than the modern wiring. When you get your caps give me a call if you need some help bro? 1-574-806-4118 is my cell#

[Last LP]

Thanks for the reply & diagram jonesy.

Can I desolder the crimped/bent backwards & soldered lead off of the POT & bend it back then still be able to use the same POT for the '50's wiring?

I'm noticing that the lug/leads have been bent & soldered on top of the POTS. Will desoldering them & bending them away from the POT & using the other lugs/tangs on the POTS for the '50's wiring scheme work okay?

I hope I'm making myself clear on what I'm trying to accomplish?

Many thanks & can't wait to hear these new relic'd CAPS!

[jonesy]

Yes you are right on track, if you want the "authentic" 50's wiring then you need to do that to the lugs on the Tone pots, but where they are connected to Volume lug is more important to your TONE, as far as it being brighter like the 50's style is known for

[Last LP]

Here are your two main types of LP wiring, the main difference is the way caps are connected to the volume pot lugs. The 50's wiring is a little brighter than the modern wiring. When you get your caps give me a call if you need some help bro? 1-574-806-4118 is my cell#

So I can remove the 'fake' Bumble Bees & use the same LUG off the Tone POT but solder it to the middle LUG on the Volume POTS?

I'm afraid that once I desolder the grounded lugs on the Tone POTS I may break them when I bend them back.

If I understand you correctly the Tone POTS can have the relic'd CAPS come off the Modern Wiring LUG but attach it to the MIDDLE LUG on the Volume POTS?

Correct?

I guess, what I'm asking is. . . "Is it worth it to desolder the Tone LUGS & use the Bottom one (after bending it back) then bend back the center LUG on the Tone POTS & Solder this as per the diagram?) & go the the Middle LUG on the Volume POTS?

[jonesy]

Yes you could do it that way and get real close to the same results, but as you see the lugs on tone pots vary slightly with each diagram. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently grab the lug from the side, then heat up solder attaching lug to case. When it gets hot enough slowly pry it back and lug will not break. Then resolder middle lug of tone pot back to case and you will have the real deal. You can do it bro, I have faith in you

[Last LP]

Many thanks jonsey.

Will heed your advice though I'm not the one doing it (eyes not what they used to be & I'm deadly around a soldering iron ) so the wife will give it a go for me.

Funny but most guys wives hate their hubby's guitars, mine loves 'em & loves working on them with me.

I do a lot of refinish work but electronics & hot solder? Uh, NO WAY! I do know my limitations!

Thanks again.

Edit: BTW the CAPS you sent LOOK AWESOME!

[jonesy]

Your welcome, anytime you need help let me know..

You are lucky your wife has soldering skills and likes guitars. My wife loves music and plays the bass, but she does not work on guitars.(she does put up with all my nonsense, guitars etc.) Nice you guys have that in common peace, jonesy

[Last LP]

Got another request my friend.

I've got a '57 Junior RI that needs a better CAP in there!

HELP!

What do you recommend?

Many thanks as always.

[jonesy]

Got another request my friend.

I've got a '57 Junior RI that needs a better CAP in there!

HELP!

What do you recommend?

Many thanks as always.

Hmmm. P-90 I imagine? I have some PIO Russian .033's & .047s silver case sweet warm vocal tone. IMHO either would make a great cap for that Jr. or I can probably dig up an .047 400V Bee for you?

Thanks, jonesy

[joek86]

Jonesy, I have a P90 LP type guitar that is generally brighter than I would like even with .047 caps. It has CTS500K tone pots. Should I install 250K pots? What traditionally comes in an LP w/P90's?


~Joe

[jonesy]

Jonesy, I have a P90 LP type guitar that is generally brighter than I would like even with .047 caps. It has CTS500K tone pots. Should I install 250K pots? What traditionally comes in an LP w/P90's?


~Joe

Hey Joe, Good talking to you on the phone today. I hope I answered all your questions for you?? Thanks, jonesy

[joek86]

Jonsey,

Greta to talk to you too and after I get the last two caps from you I should have everything that I need to play. I am going to try the lower value pot on the bridge, but bottom Line I just need to adjust my amp for this guitar! Thanks for the help!

~Joe

[jonesy]

No problem bro, those other two caps are on the way, and should be getting pretty close to your place by now Let me know how they work out for you OK?

peace, jonesy

[cudamax2343]

Nice photos, yes I have had dozens of old caps like that, that I have used to build harness's or have sold for Tone caps. I still have a lot of old wax an paper caps, lot's of .047 BEE's and a lot of mixed lower value BEE's as well.
I am not sure what is inside them but it is possible? I have pulled a lot of BEE's from old organ chassis from late 40's & 50's. If there was a way to peak inside without destroying them that is what I would do. Just because there are old caps in there doesn't mean that they are in useful range for guitar caps. .10-.010 mfd

I have just tore into this old RCA TV ( I think from 1954) and Found this Stuff.
Jewels or Junk

And found these.



And these old Speakers

[cudamax2343]

Sorry, here are the Speakers

What do you think

[FLICKOFLASH]

[SKATTERBRANE]

Jonesy On P90 Les Pauls are the caps usually more than .022 uF? More like .033 or .047?

[cudamax2343]

I think Jonsey is M.I.A.

[Gunner]

Nice to see you back Cuda!

[cudamax2343]

Thanx's Gunner. Nice to Hear From-ya.